«Ocean of clouds and light, carpet that runs fast»: for an Italian, Ireland (www.ireland.com) is above all his sky, so changeable, almost capricious. The green island is also a musical test, in remembering old songs that have become hits, ancient reels that are already synonymous with emotion. From the treble of Fiorella Mannoia, to the Modena City Ramblers, to the almost hypnotic singing of Enya, the Cranberries or the Pogues, here is the furrow of the most Irish of traditions.
To amplify the suggestion of the journey there is only one other way: the recipe is simple. Add to the notes and to the sky, even water. That of the Shannon, the river that, among its records, not only has the one of being the longest on the island, but also cuts the country in two, like a silver blade, between Gaelic pride in the west and substratum Viking to the east.
Forget the Dublin buzz, don’t just think of the breathtaking cliffs and selfie steals or the intense froth of Guinness. Discovering Ireland on the water along the dense Shannon Current means not only traveling in space, but also in time. The river winds for 260 km from Shannon pot, the source at 79 meters above sea level, up between the Cuilcagh mountains, to the fjord – estuary of Limerick. There are many bridges and locks under which its character is forged, now more impetuous, now wider and more inclusive, as when the river widens to form the numerous loughs, large lakes that are never deep in which the Shannon often seems to lose its route. Athlone is the heart, not only of the water journey, but of the whole of Ireland as well. Under its castle with its round and massive shapes, the waters become more challenging: the rapid in the city center is a cross and a delight. Boats must choose side channels; ducks and birds, on the other hand, strut in epochal slips. The town is a perfect starting point, with its ancient heart, where Sean’s bar has been pinning pints since the 10th century. Stroll along the strand, among the vestiges of the old customs house and manicured gardens. When you set sail from Athlone, the Shannon already knows where to lead: Clonmacnoise is not far away and is one of the most important monastic sites in Ireland. Today, at first glance, it might seem little more than a hill. Yet it was once a small town and also well fortified. Celtic crosses, altars and churches take shape, as in a lego of the past, thanks to stones squared with precision and skill. For 600 years this site was teeming with life, wealth and spirituality. The merit? It all goes to Ciaran, who landed there in 644 AD. Devout and resolute he was a monk, the follower of St. Patrick, Columba and Colombano, the great evangelizers of Ireland. He was not yet a saint and rolled up his sleeves, creating one of the most popular scriptoriums on the island from which precious manuscripts came out which the monks then spread throughout Europe. Continuing south, the Shannon skirts some of the most beautiful gardens on the island. Ireland, a gift from the Shannon, a bit as they say of the Nile for Egypt: and it’s all true: you understand it near Lough Dergh, in Portumna in the gardens of the castle of the same name which is returning to its former glory. Inside the house the refined De Burgo decided not to throw anything away. So today everything is put into a museum, even the skeleton of a small dog, very dear to the masters, but so unfortunate when his little master fell on him, killing him. The scene looks like that, super famous of the “cana” from the movie A marriage to English, but this too is Ireland and this is also his wonderful, irresistible sense of humor. Going down to Scariff it’s time to take up the paddle: here the Shannon resembles a water sports paradise. At the Derg Isle Adventure Center you can also row to Holy Island, to roast marshmallows near a small private pied dans l’eau castle. Arriving at the twin villages of Killaloe and Ballina, the Shannon looks like a painting, among meadows of daisies and Gothic churches that are reflected in its waters. A bridge that made history in the past for atrocious battles and today for the length of its traffic light, immediately sets things straight. Here we need calm. The same that Andrew Lofthouse serves you with style and workmanship, distilling it into an aromatic espresso. His greedy bar Ponte Vecchio recalls his Italian origins, as well as his taste for music: “The Irish sky moves with you,” spotify croaks. And it is here, between sky and water, that everything looks alike and everything finds meaning, in an embrace of clouds and light.
To be seen
Limerick: the city and its history
At the end of the trip to Ireland (www.ireland.com/it) following the Shannon current you arrive in Limerick, a city that never leaves you indifferent. And this in addition to its appearance for its history that is found walking through the streets of the city. And again, there’s music, art and literature, from Cranberries to Pulitzer Prize-winning author Frank McCourt. In the center of the city is King John’s Castle, perched on an island for over 1,000 years and said to have been built on an ancient Viking encampment. Small and quiet Limerick is at its best when explored on foot. Following the path along the river you will pass the old potato market to St Mary’s Cathedral. Founded in 1168, it is the oldest continuously used building in Limerick and is full of surprises such as the monks’ walkway at roof height and the fifth of the lepers, an opening through which lepers could hear mass in medieval times.
Ireland, the Shannon Current: the blue heart of the green island