PARIS: American actress Kristen Stewart embodied the allure of Chanel for a glamorous and scintillating ready-to-wear collection presented Tuesday in Paris, which we would rather wear during the Cannes festival than in the office.
The parade, in a dark room of the ephemeral Grand Palais, started with the screening of a film starring Kristen Stewart coming out of a broadcast of “Last year in Marienbad”. It was Gabrielle Chanel who created Delphine Seyrig’s dresses in 1961 for this film by Alain Resnais.
Short haircut in a disheveled boyish style, she is dressed in a black evening dress with a big bow on the chest, then in a long silver dress and a tweed mini-suit…
We saw these looks again during the parade for which Kristen Stewart, in black boots and a black and white mini-skirt ensemble, was among the guests in the front row with the top Naomi Campbell, the American singers Halsey, Burundian Khadja Nin, the model and Korean-American DJ Soo Joo Park and Charlotte Casiraghi from the princely family of Monaco, Chanel ambassador.
With her androgynous and offbeat look, Kristen Stewart always creates the event on the red carpet and her looks are dissected by fashion magazines which present her as one of the best dressed celebrities.
The night and the glitter
“Of the people around me, she is the closest to Gabrielle Chanel, at least from the idea that I have of her. She understands Chanel, her clothing. And with her, it becomes even more modern”, underlines the director artistry by Chanel Virginie Viard, in the note of intent for the show.
The house has made an effort for more diversity: in addition to the Dutch model Jill Kortleve, star of the parades for several seasons, at least two others are the average size of French women (40-42).
On the catwalk, black and white dominates, for a sophisticated look designed by Gabrielle Chanel around the idea of freedom of movement.
And everything shines, even the socks or stockings that you wear with mini outfits, in black or two-tone shoes – again white and black – with a bow strap.
Some satiny sets composed of shorts and a top with a bare back evoke negligees.
The Chanel suit, emblematic of the brand, comes in all its forms, with skirt, shorts or trousers, decorated with sequins, embroidery or feathers.
Bows, boas, high gloves, rhinestone ankle boots, jersey worked like scales, gold dress in crushed velvet or black slit on the side: all the elements lend themselves to it.
“The films we have seen, those that possess us and also those that we make ourselves, Marienbad, the New Wave, the look according to Gabrielle Chanel, Karl (Lagerfeld), the night, the feathers, the sequins , the heels: I like when things get mixed up”, details Virginie Viard.
A few touches of color stand out in this cinematic landscape, such as the pale green of a skirt suit with a matching handbag, the pink of a shirt worn under a salmon beige jumpsuit, or the mauve of another suit.
A sublime selection of little black dresses closes the show.
The hairstyles are minimalist and uncluttered, the short squares are smoothed and the long hair is tied up with jewel bars. The palate is dark as if stained with red wine.