Gianfranco Ferrè he once said: “Every city has its own elegance. Milan too: it has the elegance of sobriety, discretion, solidity ».
A statement that seems to have found faithful confirmation during the Fashion Week just passed. And retracing the seven days dedicated to collections for next spring summer, we can only rewind the “fil d’or” of this edition starting with Giorgio Armani.
Her garments, designed with love “for beautiful women dressed well”, become a demonstration of the coherence of Armani that comes from a deeply personal aesthetic feeling and from an expressive urgency that favors simplification that excites, purity that elevates, continuity that reassures, deconstruction that shapes.
The silhouettes of her clothes are liquid, flooded, evanescent like desert mirages. Light dusters, fluid jackets, sarouel trousers and impalpable skirts mix and overlap in a spontaneous motion that takes the weight off the wardrobe and embraces the female figure in a gentle spirituality. Her colors range from golden neutrals such as sand to purple and ink blue. Mandala motifs capture the sense of a light interior, like the bamboo canes that run along the catwalk. A vision designed to brighten up with a dreamy concreteness.
Similarly, his second Emporio Armani line takes up the themes of lightness and linearity in a journey where jackets, pea coats and dusters are the protagonists, finding new volumes inspired by a hypothetical and unspecified Orient.
A sense of sweet nostalgia permeates the collection that expertly combines the new and the old. The blazer ends up on the sarong skirt, while the shirts become overcoats. Everything fluctuates, moving lightly inside the body, drawing a new silhouette to match, as the style dictates Armaniin ultra flat shoes.
«In fashion as in our daily life, beauty is always linked to a place and an identity: ideas and gestures that we can understand and with which we can come into contact on a personal level. When I discovered the Bally universe, it was clear from the start that my energy and my point of view would be the catalyst for a rebirth ».
Rhuigi Villaseñor, Bally’s new creative director, thus introduces his new collection, a cosmpolitan exploration of European luxury through a decidedly American lens. Swiss leather craftsmanship, which forms the centerpiece of BALLY’s 171-year history, is applied equally to women’s and men’s ready-to-wear and accessories with an innate sense of sophistication and humor.
For next spring summer, Trussardi chooses instead to explore its connection with nature. The new creative directors of the Maison, Benjamin A. Huseby And Serhat Işık they look at the connection, sometimes conflicting and sometimes complementary, between realism and magic, drawing inspiration from the work of Silvia Federici, Caliban and the witchin which speaking of the period in which the «witch hunt» took place, the scholar explains how «the world had to be ‘disenchanted’ in order to be dominated».
And it is with fashion that Trussardi wants to bring magic back into our lives, that same “light” after so much darkness that he mentions Giorgio Armani in his collection. Here then, among the reflections of the misted mirrors of the golden and baroque hall of Palazzo Clerici, the Trussardi woman parades, in dresses cut directly from fluid and shimmering jersey cloths, embellished with knotted necklines and cascading hems, while satin dresses up to floor are wrapped around the neck and draped with ruffles, slits and ruffles.
The collection also includes denim, part of the Maison’s DNA, this time treated with couture finishes such as cut-outs and sculptural constructions of beads and crystals.
And it is precisely during the Milan Fashion Week that the opening words of a new chapter in the history of Ferragamo were written. The brand has in fact debuted a new logo, a modernist interpretation of a classic typeface, which refers to the stone engravings that inspired Renaissance artists, by the graphic designer Peter Saville.
Modern and essential, the new Ferragamo is a projection towards the future tinged with a suffused spirit of classicism. The garments, presented on an intense red catwalk, are young and lively. Under the creative direction of Maximillian Davisthe Maison acquires a new sensuality given by the drapery of the dresses, dyed in a degradé effect and embellished with tiny crystals made with recycled materials.
The catwalk also sees the return of the classic Wanda bag, born in 1988, and now reinterpreted in an elegant clutch bag.
«Beauty is the search for balance». Thus opens the note issued by Ermanno Scervino about his latest collection. A journey into female intimacy, capable of projecting light and determination.
The runway comes alive with satin trench coats and cotton trouser dresses with urban inflections, enriched with iridescent sequins that give a liquid look, while naive floral decorations adorn transparent minidresses inspired by lingerie and studded with small crystals.
Cotton knitwear is the maximum expression of Ermanno Scervino’s continuous research and skill in the manipulation of materials, a process in which handmade and technology collide for an artisanal dialogue in balance between present and future.
Instead he chooses to experiment with the classics, Ports 1961. The collection takes the conventional elements of a shared collective repertoire to tear them apart and layered, overlapping to add movement, elongation, fluidity.
The classic suit, the t-shirt, the dress, the slip, the trousers, the cricket shirt, but also the stripes, pinstripes and checks of traditional clothing become the basis for deconstruction experiments. The tailored blazers are dematerialized by second layers; the trousers are open vertically, the linings and underneath are constantly in sight. Materials of different weights mix in the same garment creating further movement. Tops and dresses melt into handkerchief hems. So the artistic director Karl Templer splits between convention and rebellion, transforming the brand into an “unfamiliar version of familiar objects”.
The Missoni spring summer 2023 collection marks a real passing of the baton for the historic Italian brand. After the news of the sale of 41.2% of the company to a private equity company, which took place four years ago and the “goodbye” of Angela Missoni last year, the Maison chose Filippo Grazioli as a creative guide for the men’s and women’s collections.
After a presentation during the last men’s fashion week, the designer made his debut on the catwalk in the spaces of the Bocconi University in Milan. And his “alphabet of colors” brings the Missoni language into the present.
Light is the golden thread that accompanies the collection, “the mobile container of all colors” where the classic patterns – flamed, zig zag, stripes, patchwork, rachel – are declined in new weights and techniques, to create a repertoire of designs and surfaces.
Miniskirts and dresses in strong colors (fuchsia, turquoise and yellow) are masculine with the inevitable black and white. To the applause of the family Missoniin the front row to witness the debut of Grazioli. Because the family is forever.
Walter Chiapponicreative director of Tod’s, aims for a collection made up of essential pieces and iconic garments, each customized in construction and proportions to meet the needs of the contemporary.
Here too we find monochrome garments, this time with a minimalist flavor that is updated in the choice of all the natural shades that recall the colors of the Italian earth in summer. From pale pinks to more intense blushes, from dusty beiges to warm burnt, with sunny accents of red and yellow.
The new Bubble ballerina catches the eye, with the sole of giant rubber pads in a contrasting color. While for him, the historic icon of the brand – the WG – is dressed in soft suede, in unexpected and delicate tones.
“Be your own Boss” (Be your own boss, ed). A phrase that, in recent months, we have seen on billboards, on television and in glossy magazines.
Starting from the deconstruction of the idea of power pressing, with references to sportwear, BOSS continues its style revolution, this time taking inspiration from the world of motorcycling. His “see now, buy now” collection features a variety of silhouettes to adapt to every personality, as the brand ambassadors tell us, from Naomi Campbell to the Korean actor Lee Minho.
“Our archive is the beating heart of BOSS and the brand legacy,” he said Marco Falcioni, Senior Vice President Creative Direction of HUGO BOSS. «We drew inspiration from some iconic images from the BOSS campaigns of the 90s to explore our clothes in past decades and to ask ourselves: how can we capture the atmosphere of power of these garments for a new generation? This season we were drawn to the idea of soft power. Clothing that is not an inflexible shield around the wearer, but rather an expression of individuality and freedom ».
A Midsummer Night’s Dream. This is how we could define the new Max Mara collection designed by Ian Griffiths that for next spring summer chooses to take us to the Riviera.
Zelda Fitzgerald, Renée Perle and Eileen Gray I am one of the stylist’s muses. The garments are designed to be worn, but above all lived, so on the catwalk a series of total looks in raw linen, an undyed yarn that looks like jute, sometimes worked with fringed edges. While the structured silhouettes of the classic coats take on the delicate allure bathrobes faded by the sun.
It is the wind that gives shape to the spring summer 2023 signed by Calcaterra. Thus, as the wind moves seas and sculpts mountains, the collection generates new ways of constructing the shape which, deprived of its original structure, literally falls on the body, highlighting an androgynous and at the same time extremely feminine sensuality.
The raffia filigree sautage of the jacket-trousers total look gives a spectacular glass effect to the eye in the floral design with geometric echoes, while maxi circular openings widen on skirts, jackets and dresses, where the embroidery is inlaid on the profiles, emphasizing their three-dimensionality with round tone-on-tone sequins.
Color also enters, like an unexpected breath of wind, and dissolves on a grain de poudre with a citrine yellow of extraordinary luminous strength. A new form of poetry, which only the wind can draw.
“Once upon a time there was an imaginative visionary who organizes a multifaceted expedition within the most unexplored and prehistoric Sardinia to restore an Opera House to its ancient splendor by now submerged by the waters of a lake”.
Thus begins the dream story of Antonio Marras, made up of characters of all characters and personalities, united by the passion for adventure and nature. Sand and dove-gray colors are flanked by multicolored roses, light laces, aqua-green tulles and milk-white damasks, in a meeting of souls.