Jean-Luc Matha, winegrower from the Marcillac area, based in Bruéjouls, philosopher in his spare time, talks unrestrained about his region, his passion, his family and climate change with a “liberated word”, eponym of one of his vintages.
Before meeting Jean-Luc Matha, at his home in Bruéjouls, I had no idea that I would leave his estate with my head full of philosophical and spiritual reflections. I knew that I would be informed of the history of Marcillac, that we would talk about oenology, natural wine and that we would visit his estate, at the end of the interview. But, I was far from imagining that we would discuss subjects like climate change, his son, or even his faith and his spirituality. The more we listen to it, the more we have the impression of unrolling a reel of words, much fuller and longer than we expected.
We know Jean-Luc Matha through his wines in AOC Marcillac, his estate in Bruéjouls, his transition to a healthier mode of production… But Jean-Luc Matha, a winegrower for a long time, is a spiritual, serene man, a man of ” energy”, which has evolved throughout his life, knees in the earth, close to his vines. He describes his wine like an artist who describes his work, because he is a passionate winegrower. Jean-Luc Matha is an emblematic figure of the region. A “wise man” who leads today “ peaceful life “.
There are many interested winemakers who make wine for profit; they are violent with their vineyard, their wine.
He has always been concerned with preserving nature and biodiversity. It was a friend who gave him the “click”. “ He opened my eyes, paradoxically to his blindnesshe admits. I have always been concerned about nature, the land, my vines and my wine. To be in kind, today, is eternal life. “
Natural wine, a philosophy
Jean-Luc Matha speaks of “philosophy” when he broaches the subject of natural wine, because, for him, working in this way means adhering to a way of life, a way of thinking. Straight in his boots, straps well attached and pulled up, it is knee to the ground, in the vineyard that he feels in his place. “My vines are my life. I am the only leaven of my wine”, he remarks amused. The so-called “natural” wine is made from grapes grown in organic or biodynamic agriculture. They are harvested manually and vinified, then, without synthetic or chemical products. Winegrowers in nature are people concerned about climate change and worry about the prosperity of the planet. They adhere to the same philosophy: to do better for future generations by producing wine in a more ethical and responsible way. “The philosophy of “nature” is our soul, it is passion, benevolence and love. It’s loving your neighbour, protecting the people who work in the vineyards, those who live next door, those who go to drink our wine and, of course, the surrounding flora and fauna. It’s a real realization.”
And to continue: “There are many interested winegrowers, who make wine for profit; they are violent with their vines, their wine. Those who boast of working in sustainable agriculture are not reasonable in my opinion, it’s a nameless hoax . My vines are not in the shade. On the hillsides, high up, they take advantage of the spectacle that nature offers them.”
Jean-Luc Matha is passionate, a true artist, he talks about his wine as if he forgot the hard work that hides behind each bottle made. “The heart of the winegrower takes years to shape. It’s not an easy job, but I wouldn’t have wanted to do anything else. One day, pick the vine, smell it, understand it and love it- I am my vines, I am my wine”, he smiled.
A role of transmitter
His father instilled in him values that he tries to follow in his daily life, day after day. “ My father left far too soon. He was a fabulous man, I am often inspired by him and his words. He transmitted to me the most beautiful gift in the world, that of observation, of contemplation. I hope my son, whom I love more than anything, can say the same about me when I’m gone “, he confides moved. He regularly insists on self-confidence and the need to believe in his dreams and his instincts. He thinks that to love your neighbor and do good, you have to love yourself first. He loves his only son more than anything and is very proud of him. There is something. Hugo is a young creator and designer in the fashion sector and worked in particular in the creation of the uniforms of the famous Hôtel de Crillon, in Paris.
A worrying climate change
Later, he will take over the business without spending most of his time there, because Hugo does not aspire to be a winegrower. But father and son want to keep the estate in a desire to “ preserve the spirit of Marcillac “, of “ keep the authenticity of their wines” and of “the sumptuous inheritance” of their vines.
“ Hugo does not want to become a winegrower. It will surely be Quentin and Sylvain, the two employees of the domain in whom I trust, who will take care of it when I can no longer. They work in line with my philosophy of life. The same respect, the same vision of things. Our wine resembles us, it is generous, energetic, humble “, argues the owner.
Concerned about the environment, Jean-Luc Matha has evolved in step with the climate change that the earth has suffered for years. Like many winegrowers, he made a transition to natural wine with a view to the future and the preservation of biodiversity. Its authenticity and its direct proximity to the environment pushed it in this direction. “ When you work according to the seasons, which are felt less and less, it’s hard to find your way around and not notice this impressive difference over the years. A February at 28 degrees is not normal “, he reproaches.
“ I have always kept faith, in God and in myself. When my vines suffer, I am their root. We survive thanks to the energy that I give them and thanks to that of Marcillac “, he enthuses.
His profession being dependent on the climate, he quickly observed and understood that the situation was becoming more and more alarming. “ There is less water, less evolution. Our vines are stressed. The birds get lost, no longer know when to make their nests, or their babies. The vines, the fauna and flora are destabilized, all of nature is lost “, he explains.
“ For years to come, no one knows how it will turn out. It will surely be harder for everyone, not just for the winegrowers.”
But, Jean-Luc Matha is an optimist, a believer, a fervent defender of the law of attractiveness. He does not despair and believes in future generations to do better.
“I want to think towards the good and manifest the positive, despite my worries. That’s how good comes, by attracting it.” he remarks with some assurance.
Two days of tasting and sharing
The winegrower participates, Sunday June 19 and Monday June 20, in the “Contrastes” natural wine fair, which takes place at the former stud farms of Rodez. A fair organized by the Terres de Gaillac association which brings together winegrowers and winemakers from the South-West mutual aid, friendliness and solidarity. They will present all their authentic and lively wines around two days of sharing. “This natural wine fair is the future”, certifies Jean-Luc Matha.
Vallon de Marcillac: Jean-Luc Matha, as natural and authentic as his wine