On Thursday March 24, 2022, the LVMH Prize unveiled the list of eight finalists for its ninth edition, including Japanese designer Ryunosuke Okazaki, who designs clothes that look like sculptures imbued with spirituality
During Tokyo fashion week in August 2021, Ryunosuke Okazaki, freshly graduated in graphic design from Tokyo University of the Arts in 2021, launches his label Ryunosukeokazaki with a first spectacular three-dimensional collection. Although he claims to have drawn on the history of Japan, in particular the Jōmon period (which takes place between 4000 and 300 BC), it is in nature and flora that Ryunosuke Okazaki found his inspiration to compose these avant-garde silhouettes in vibrant colors from which emanate purity and magnificence but also influences borrowed from the world of science fiction. When they are not adorned with imposing enveloping petals, the Ryunosukeokazaki dresses unfold in magnificent structures, organic and futuristic forms all in symmetry which swirl around the body. Questioning both the protective and ornamental power of clothing, Ryunosuke Okazaki’s experimental approach is at the crossroads of the great creators of conceptual fashion such as Rei Kawakubo, Iris Van Herpen and Craig Green.
NUMÉRO: What is your first memory of fashion?
Ryunosuke Okazaki: As far back as I can remember, I’ve always loved drawing and making things. My interest in the arts naturally led me to fashion and thereafter, I became more and more involved in this field. I still treasure the first vintage item of clothing I bought when I was 15.
Which fashion designers (living or dead) inspire you and why?
I am always amazed by Rei Kawakubo’s creations. I remember being shocked when I met him. I respect her enormously for her constant quest for novelty and expression throughout the history of her brand.
You were born in Hiroshima, a city with a very special history. How did growing up there influence your approach to art and fashion?
Being born and raised in Hiroshima, I have always been aware of the importance of peace. My grandmother was exposed to radiation when she was 7 years old and I am the third generation of survivors. I live my life thinking about the connection between people, from prayers for peace to the connection between people and the land. In my opinion, art and fashion also have an important message to convey and I will continue to create to convey this message to the world through my works.
Did you know when you started studying art that it was to become a fashion designer?
From the beginning, I had in mind to approach fashion from its most expressive and creative aspect, which is why I first studied art in order to expand my own capacity for expression and the possibilities to create clothes. For me, the most important thing about self-expression through making clothes is the search for new possibilities. I thought it was more important to keep looking at the creative world in a broader way than just learning how to make clothes.
How did you know that launching your brand right after graduation was the right time?
In fact, I’ve been designing clothes since I was in school and even got to hold my first fashion show there in September 2021. I’ve been creating art for a long time, so the timing of the fashion show right after graduating of the diploma was very natural.
What was the inspiration for your first collection?
My theme has always been “prayer”. From prayers for peace to prayers for life, and going deeper into this subject, I came to the Japanese prayer for nature. For my creations, I draw inspiration from forms and decorations that emerged in the ancient history of prayer in Japan, such as Jōmon pottery and Shintoism, and when people wear them, they become a completed form of prayer.
What is the significance of this collection? And what is the goal?
I used my inspiration which is “prayer”, in my powerful creations. I believe that people who see these shapes will feel something and enrich their hearts, if only a little. By stimulating the imagination, we create a future in which people can live.
How did you achieve these amazing three-dimensional creations? What techniques did you use?
The main materials of my creations are fabrics in the research phase that are in a warehouse made available to me by a fabric company. By taking advantage of the elasticity of knits, fabrics are bent by inserting different types of base materials, which are then joined together to form the shape of the piece. As I take advantage of the characteristics of the fabric, the shape varies according to the elasticity and thickness of the textile. I do not draw patterns, but create them as if they were sculptures. The act of creation itself is an act of prayer.
How do you envision the future of your label?
Above all, I strongly believe in the art and creativity that I make with my hands. So I will continue to create wearable artwork. I haven’t decided yet if I will do ready-to-wear, but I’m considering it at some point. The important thing is to transmit to the world the message conveyed by the power of creation. This is why I am ready to take up all challenges.