The chapel of Aurelle is beautiful

the essential
From the Lot valley to Aubrac, this demanding hike offers breathtaking views as a reward. All this thanks to the good advice of the topoguides of the Aveyron departmental hiking committee.

Cloudy sky, 22° to start. The conditions are optimal in view of the heat waves to walk from Saint-Geniez to the chapel of Aurelle. The start near the cloister, in the heart of the historic center of the marmotte city, shows that Saint-Geniez has nothing to envy to the most beautiful villages in France downstream of the Lot, which are Sainte-Eulalie, Saint-Côme and Estaing. After having greeted the statue of the marmot on the bridge, the right bank recalls the rich past of the city. Right where it all began, with the Consuls’ house and the old town hall. The climb up rue de la Poujade passes in front of the house of Marie Talabot, whose bicentenary of her birth is being celebrated this summer. By the way, know that Louis Mercadié offers a conference on the subject this Saturday evening at the auditorium of Saint-Geniez.

Parenthesis closed. Return to the path which passes in front of the chapel of Saint-Antoine-de-Padoue and offers a view of Saint-Geniez and the Lot valley. The hike justifies its announced height difference (nearly 800 m) to cross the foothills of Aubrac. A little asphalt, a lot of earth, fortunately in the shade. The rise of Volmanières turns out to be a wall which, moreover, is on the menu for trail runners. The path offers a lull greeted by the presence of horses and the view in the distance of the church of Saint-Martin-de-Montbon. From the forests to the Aubrac plateau, the palette gives autumn colors. Towards Verlaguet, we pass over the drailles strewn with straw, in the company of clouds of butterflies which are not so easily taken in photos. The Aubrac makes itself felt. In the darkness of the woods, we would like to be with Gonzalo (pioneer of the plateau’s mountain guides) to learn the names of the plants. Suddenly, at the top of a ridge, she finally appears. The aubrac cow. Proudly lying with her horns saluting the sky. The Aubrac seems immense. Out of sight. Its slightly hilly relief gives shape to the landscapes. Never boring, always breathtaking. Every stone and every tree seems to be placed exactly in its place. Like in a painting. I pass the first biped. A retired peasant, towel on his shoulder, who goes to pull thistles. Living in Verlaguet, “the suburb of Aurelle”, he said humorously. Aurelle-Verlac now makes up the new commune of Saint-Geniez-d’Olt and Aubrac. He has become accustomed to the beauty of the landscapes but knows how to take advantage of them. The Escoudats crossing is the beginning of a descent into the woods to cross a stream, follow the ridges to reach the chapel of Aurelle. “This jewel of Romanesque art is the smallest in France”, says the topoguide. The building is now inaccessible to human beings. Explanatory panels show the interior in photos with the statue of Saint-Clair, its baptismal font, its 16th century bell which made storms disappear… A colony of bats (200 greater horseshoe bats) sensitive to the nuisances of human life explains the closure of the chapel. Bats are more practicing than human beings. That said, monotheistic religions do not have a monopoly on spirituality. The human being is not far away. Two stone houses, one of which indicates 1861, are erected next to the chapel. Like a furtive apparition, a lady in a straw hat, bottle of water in hand, crosses this bucolic picture. The sign indicates the return to Saint-Geniez at 9 km. From the Aubracs, from the descent, the church seen on the outward journey from Saint-Martin-de-Montbon is this time crossed. A forest track that never ends, the last kilometers are always the longest. The Barribès river, named after one of the oldest districts of Saint-Geniez, is crossed. The mausoleum of Marie Talabot appears and the feet are in the city. The circle is complete. It remains to say goodbye to the statue of the groundhog with the two children whose legend gave them the nickname.

The chapel of Aurelle is beautiful