And the world mecca of yogisin particular of practitioners ofAshtanga Yoga. IS Mysorethe southern Indian city, in the current state of Karnataka, where is it Tirumalai Krishnamacharya (1888-1989), the father of modern yogaopened his own after years of research, travel and studies Shala. A yoga school, housed in the palace of the Mahārājahis disciple.
To study with him he arrived, among the many students, K. Pattabhi Jois, another master among the most influential of the twentieth century, who elaborated the teachings received by developing what is today one of the most popular yoga styles in the world: theAshtanga Vinyasa Yogawith which the city of Mysore maintains an indissoluble bond.
But besides the Ashrams and yoga schools (in the pre-COVID period regularly attended by 1,000 – 1,500 foreign practitioners), the Indian city, whose official name is Mysuru, is also famous for its glittering royal heritage and magnificent palaces. THE marketsthe silkthe sandalwood. Here is a journey through yoga, colors and beauties of the second city of Karnataka, after Bangalore.
Mysore: what to see
From 1399 to 1947 Mysore was the capital of the kingdom of the same name which was ruled by Wodeyar dynasty. Their residence, in the heart of the city, opposite the Chamunda hills, is today the second most visited place in India (after the Taj Mahal) and one of the country’s grandest royal buildings.
The current complex of the Mysore Palacealso called Amba Vilas Palace, was built, in the Indo-Saracen style, between 1897 and 1912, after the ancient wooden palace, whose origins date back to the 14th century, was demolished by a fire.
It is a three-story architecture in gray granite and pink marble, animated by domes, towers, arches and colonnades and surrounded by a magnificent garden.
But to leave you speechless are the sumptuous interiors, a kaleidoscope of stained glass, mirrors and bright colors, carved woods, mosaic floors and an infinite number of treasures.
Among others, the Golden thronea spectacular structure carved and decorated with ivory plaques, precious stones, sculptures, inscriptions.
Lalitha Mahal it is the second largest palace in Mysore. On the hill, a grand all-white building, built in 1931 along the lines of St. Paul’s Cathedral in London. The guests of the Maharaja stayed there; it was then transformed into a luxurious hotel which today retains its historic charm.
The visit to the monumental city continues a Jaganmohan Palace, royal residence built in 1861, later transformed into an art gallery and museum opened to the public in 1915 by the then king of Mysore. It holds one of the largest art collections in South India: over 2000 works and objects, including paintings, sculptures and rare musical instruments.
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Mysore: the Chamundeshwari temple and sacred places
“City of Palaces”, Mysore also boasts beautiful temples and spiritual places.
At the top of the Chamundi hills, the Chamundeshwari temple it is one of the symbols of Karnataka.
It takes its name from the goddess Chamundi, or Durga, the patron deity of the royal family of Mysuru. It has more than 1,000 years of history and is dominated by an imposing Gopuramthe monumental tower placed at the entrances of the temples, a typical element of the Dravidian style architecture of southern India.
On the way to the temple, one meets statue of Nandi, the legendary white bull ridden by Shiva, which is among the largest in India.
A stairway of 1,000 steps leads to the top of the Chamundi hills, a sacred place but also of great scenic beauty that offers a 360 degree view over the city. Every day pilgrims and hikers tackle the climb before dawn.
On the outskirts of Mysore, the Cathedral of Santa Filomenabuilt in 1936 in a neo-Gothic style and inspired by the Cologne Cathedral, is among the tallest churches in Asia.
We must reach the banks of the Kaveri river and the city of Somanathapura38 km from Mysore, to visit the temple of Chennakesavaor Keshava, dedicated to Visnù. Small in size, it is one sculpted wonder and one of the best examples of Hoysala architecture. From the 13th century.
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Mysore: the colors of India, between festivals and markets.
For a dip in the daily life of the city and in the smells and colors of India, the secular Devaraja market it is famous for fresh flowers, including lotus flowers and fragrant jasmine, fruit and vegetable stalls, spices, incense, jaggery (unrefined sugar).
And then the “Instagrammables” cones of kumkumthe colored powder used for the party of Holi and for decorations such as the point on the forehead, called bindi, or bindu.
The most important festival of Karnataka is also a riot of colors: the Mysore Dasara. 10-day festival that takes place between September and October and attracts visitors from all over the world. With sumptuous processions, traditional dance performances, music and events such as the elephant parade and theillumination of the Mysore Palace, in the evening, with almost 100,000 bulbs.
The victory of good over evil is celebrated, represented by the goddess Chamundeshwari (Durga) who killed the demon Mahishasurahence the name Mysuru of the city.
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Fairytale gardens and lakes for bird watching
The list of Mysore attractions also includes fairytale gardens and lakes populated by hundreds of bird species. THE Brindavan Gardens, built between the 1920s and 1930s, they are lush terraced gardens, famous above all for their fountainssome of which are musical, which in the evening transform the immense park into a show of lights.
16 kilometers from Mysore is the Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary the Karnataka’s largest bird sanctuary which includes six islets on the banks of the Kaveri river, populated by hundreds of exotic species that are spotted with boat tour.
Other birdwatching paradises are the lake Kukkarahalliin the heart of the city, and that of Karanji: another favorite haunt of migratory birds, immersed in a natural park, also famous for the colorful species of butterflies.
Mysore: a tour of the museums
Among the museums of the city, worth a visit there RK Narayan Househome of one of India’s most beloved authors (for the invention of Malgudi, a fictional city in southern India where most of his stories were set), opened as a public museum in 2016. The Railway museum and the Mysore Sand Sculpture Museumthe only museum in India dedicated to sand sculptures (info: karnatakatourism.org).
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Mysore, the yoga capital of the world. Here are the best centers
In Mysore there are approx 400 yoga centers they offer teacher training courses with the best instructors, retreats and daily classes of different styles and for all levels: beginners and advanced.
Many are found in the central district of Gokulam, a real international community of yogis from all over the globe.
One of the main schools is K. Pattabhi Jois Ashtanga Yoga Institute (KPJAYI) (kpjayshala.com)where you practice with the guidance of Saraswati Joisthe daughter of Sri K Pattabhi Jois, and his daughter Sharmila.
The other keeper of the Ashtanga lineage is the grandson of Pattabhi Jois, R. Sharath Jois, who runs one of his centers in Mysore: Sharath Yoga Center (sharathyogacentre.com).
Another school where to deepen the Ashtanga practice – dynamic and vigorous, with sequences of fixed asanas (postures) and a very close link between movement and breath – is theAshtanga Yoga Mysore (ashtangayogamysore.net) which also offers courses in Ayurveda.
And still there is the center of Masterji Viswanathgrandson of Pattabhi Jois, with whom he studied as a teenager, and teacher for over 50 years (yogamasterji.com).
To try a different style from Ashatnaga, the Prana Vashya Yoga it is very popular in Mysore, and still little known in Italy: the reference point for 20 years has been the center Prana Vashya Yoga Shala.
For an experience of meditation and of healing based on sound and vibration, you can visit the Temple of the Tibetan bells, in the Gokulam area: an oasis of peace where the guru is the artist and musician Akhilanka.
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